Broadhead issues

nvguy2 · Oct 29, 2012

Having issues with my broadheads. Bought me a new elite bow last year. My muzzy 100 grain broadheads were not consistent. I also had a hard time with the shuttle t's. Have killed alot of deer with those muzzy's. My brother bought a new bow a few years ago and had broadhead problems also. He switched to a mechanical rockethead and swears by them. I tried 2 montec G5's tonight. One flew great, one didn't. Have paper tuned this bow at the shop 3 times. Can't get a fixed blade to fly consistent. Swaping heads to different arrows to find which fly for my late hunt. Any suggestions on my issue would be appreciated. Just don't understand. Put field tips on, shoot great. 3 different fixed blades. Some shoot good, some don't. 1 shoots good and then for some reason seems to start shooting crappy. Any thoughts.

blazingsaddle · Oct 30, 2012

It could be a number of things: form, arrow spine, bow tuning issues, etc. I tend to think that most flight issues with BHs are from bad form or the lack of a well tuned bow. Paper tuned does not mean your bow is "tuned".
There are many threads on this very problem on this site. A quick search will be of help to you.

IMO the easiest way to get everything right is to follow the Easton Tuning Guide.

Good luck!

lucaar · Oct 31, 2012

Paper tuning will get you to a good starting point but you really need to broadhead tune your bow. Make sure arrow spine, clearance, timing etc. is correct first. Here is a brodhead tuning guide:

http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.php

You also need to make sure your broadheads are aligned on your shaft correctly. I use a G5 ASD tool then spin test all of my heads. If they don't spin, I don't shoot the broadhead. I know a lot of people like Muzzy heads but in my experience half of them won't spin straight out of the package, and if they do at first then you shoot them into a target a few times a lot of times they won't. I shoot Slick Triks, but any of the Trophy Taker heads, G5, VPA, and Ramcats should all spin well and will kill like crazy.

Hope this helps.

BigPig · Oct 31, 2012

It's really not that complicated once you understand what to rule out. It's either the bow's tune or it's you, or both. If you had trouble with Shuttle T's (a great flying broadhead) you definitely need to do a little homework.

Proper arrow spine for set up?
No vane contact? verify with lipstick or foot spray
Arrows spin true with broadheads, no wobble?
Bow in spec? Brace height? ATA? Cam timing?
No cam lean?

AND THE BIGGIE... Shooter form

Make sure there is no grip torque (the usual culprit with broadhead flight issues)

Don't slap the trigger. Slow squeeze, or better yet, a deep finger hook and pull through with back tension.

Those are the big things. Start there and then we can get into more detail if needed. Just don't take the easy way and go to mechanicals. That is just a cover up. If a guy wants to shoot a mech for a bigger cut or more wind resistance, those are arguably valid reasons, but with todays broadheads that are so easy to tune, shooting a mech as a substitue for good tuning and form is just ignoring the real problem. Fix the issue, and then if you still decide to shoot a mech, fine, but don't use one as a band aid.