Dalmation Toadflax

ismith

Very Active Member
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Has anyone on here had any success getting rid of this weed? Im planning on removing as much as I can by hand and then planting a dryland alfalfa/grass mix to hopefully out compete it. Any advice would be helpful! Thanks! ismith


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2-4D and diesel, mixed with red food dye so you can see which bush you sprayed.....Also good for Tansy Ragwort and Western Thistle.

Probably ain't legal anymore, but it always worked for us.
 
LAST EDITED ON Feb-25-08 AT 03:58PM (MST)[p]The Colorado Department of Agriculture has a FREE beneficial insect that controls this noxious weed quite well. It does take some patience as this insect needs 2-3 years to establish itself in high enough numbers to do the job. It is environmentally safe.

You may call Mark Sticklin at the Dept. of Ag for further information. He ususally arrives at the office around 9:30-10am. Phone: 970-464-7916

Posted by Beanman's Wife
 
By the way, that was BeanWife who made that reply. She's an Entomologist in the Biological Control Division of the Colorado Department of Ag.


You would probably have better luck with a chemical control program to start with. It would work better if you sprayed before you pull them, assuming they are growing. Since you probably don't have a restricted use chemical license you'll have to forget using tordon+banvel and go with banvel (dicamba) alone. 2,4-D with diesel fuel might help burn the plant down but it won't be the chemical of choice especially if you are trying to replant and establish under dryland conditions. You will need a lot of help from Ma nature to get a good stand in dryland depending on how much moisture you recieve annually. Drill it, don't broadcast the seed.

Beanman
 
How about roundup? Plowing and Drilling isnt really an option at this time. I know broadcast sowing takes twice as much seed but that is the best I can do for now. Thanks for all the advice.
ismith
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Smith,

Roundup (glyphosate) should work but not as well as Banvel. It does have the side benefit of leaving no soil residual chemicals which might affect newly planted grass and forbs. If the toadflax comes back you can always treat it with banvel and 2,4-D once the grass is established. Where are you located? Working for CSU at a research farm has put me in contact with hundreds of do it your self people. Unfortunately they generally have a very low success rate in their agricultural adventures.

When you buy your Roundup go to a farm or ag store and buy the generic Roundup which is sold under many different Trade names now. Just read the label and buy on which has at least 41% Glyphosate in it, you will save some money.

beanman
 
I bought some land just east of Helena, Montana in the mountains (about 4500ft elevation) and it is mostly open ponderosa type woodland. There are a couple spots where the ground has been disturbed and thats where the toadflax is growing. It doesnt seem like they are too bad yet but I know they can produce alot of seeds so I want to take some steps to prevent them from spreading. Ive read that cultivation and competition with other plants can effectively control its spread. Would it be possible to "burn" them with a fertilizer? Thanks for the help,
ismith

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