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nmhunter79
Guest
So what is up with these things? Do they work or is it just another gimick? How do they work? Thanks
dufus
dufus
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Not sure of what the Chrono is yet, but they work just like normal Speed Nocks to increase speed up to 10fps.
For single cam bows, you use one and for Dual Cam bows, you use one each for the top and bottom (2 total). You basically just slide them between your strings about 1/2" to 1" or so below the serving (but you may need to adjust to get optimal speed) and move up or down to adjust then serve them in. Obviously, to get the best performance numbers, when you adjust you will need to go back and forth between chrono.
I bought a used Admiral and the strings on it did not have the Speed Nocks that normally come on the Admiral, so that is why I added them.
?-ERock-> ?
For single cam bows, you use one and for Dual Cam bows, you use one each for the top and bottom (2 total). You basically just slide them between your strings about 1/2" to 1" or so below the serving (but you may need to adjust to get optimal speed) and move up or down to adjust then serve them in. Obviously, to get the best performance numbers, when you adjust you will need to go back and forth between chrono.
I bought a used Admiral and the strings on it did not have the Speed Nocks that normally come on the Admiral, so that is why I added them.
?-ERock-> ?
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nmhunter79
Guest
So when you say about 1-2" below the serving, do you mean below the serving that wraps around the cam? I have a Reflex (Hoyt)Growler so I would need 2 for my application. Thanks for the input.
dufus
dufus
U
utahmulies
Guest
I would be very surprised if you got 10 fps more with those on.
They call them speed studs but everything I have seen with them they slow you down. More weight on your string always does. They DO help straighten your peep if you use a tubeless peep if you are having problems with it staying straight just by sliding them up or down the string.
I shoot a Mathews Z7. I took off the 2 monkey tails on my string and gained 4 fps. I did nothing else. Just took them off.
Try the speed studs and see if you like them in your bow.
Mathews Z7
CX Maxima Hunter 350
Sure Loc Single pin
Grim Reaper Broadheads
They call them speed studs but everything I have seen with them they slow you down. More weight on your string always does. They DO help straighten your peep if you use a tubeless peep if you are having problems with it staying straight just by sliding them up or down the string.
I shoot a Mathews Z7. I took off the 2 monkey tails on my string and gained 4 fps. I did nothing else. Just took them off.
Try the speed studs and see if you like them in your bow.
Mathews Z7
CX Maxima Hunter 350
Sure Loc Single pin
Grim Reaper Broadheads
Yes, the go below the serving that goes over the cams.
In regards to slowing down the string, if placements is too far down the string, they can slow things down or just not be as efficient for max FPS. The mass farther away and closer to the cans actual helps gain FPS if placed right. That is why its better to have a chrono near and test after each adjustment for optimal placement. If you look at a lot of "Speed Bows" or for instance, a new Admiral; they come with them from the factory with speed nocks for those extra FPS.
Again though, its all about placement and experimenting.
Let's us now if you gain any FPS and your placement.
?-ERock-> ?
In regards to slowing down the string, if placements is too far down the string, they can slow things down or just not be as efficient for max FPS. The mass farther away and closer to the cans actual helps gain FPS if placed right. That is why its better to have a chrono near and test after each adjustment for optimal placement. If you look at a lot of "Speed Bows" or for instance, a new Admiral; they come with them from the factory with speed nocks for those extra FPS.
Again though, its all about placement and experimenting.
Let's us now if you gain any FPS and your placement.
?-ERock-> ?
Okay, I am trying to wrap my mind around these speed studs and figure out from a mechanical stand point how they increase your speed? Not so much interested in how to set them up as I figure you would keep adjusting them up or down near the cams with a chronogram until you achieved the fastest speed. My question is how do they work? Is it because they pull the string taunt opposing away from one another? Or is it the whipping motion that could be created past the cam when it comes to the stop? Does anyone know?
I am currently getting my Bowtech Allegiance restrung with winners choice strings. The bow came factory with speed studs. I asked my pro shop about them and they use knock studs with a slight crimp and move them up and down until they get the fastest speed. Then they crimp them down in place. Anyone ever heard or used this method? 10 FPS is quite a bit (if thats what your getting from speed studs) and I don't want to lose that if I can help it.
GBA
I am currently getting my Bowtech Allegiance restrung with winners choice strings. The bow came factory with speed studs. I asked my pro shop about them and they use knock studs with a slight crimp and move them up and down until they get the fastest speed. Then they crimp them down in place. Anyone ever heard or used this method? 10 FPS is quite a bit (if thats what your getting from speed studs) and I don't want to lose that if I can help it.
GBA
Basically, they pick reduce some of the oscillation from the string and help propel it forward with a little momentum.
The concept in the placing of the "Speed Studs" or "Speed Nocks" or "Speed Balls" is all relatively the same. Each has to be adjusted down (sometimes up)to gain optimum speed and avoid possible speed loss. This is why having a Chrono is important. You want to move each of the Speed Studs in incrementally small amounts until there is no more speed gain (at the peak). After that point (moving closer to the center of the string usually), you start to lose speed.
Here is a rough analogy that I hope explains the concept a little....
First thing, would be to think of how a long whip works. Think of the whip itself, as the bow string and your whipping hand as the cam and the "Fulcrum" or balance point as the "Speed Stud."
When you go to "Whip" it ("Whip it Good" - Sorry, I couldn't resist an 80's reference!), you first bring the whip the opposite direction in which you want it to fly. In order to make it "Crack," it has to be brought back to the original direction you want it to fly at the precise "Fulcrum" (balance point) and precise speed.
Bringing the whip forward too soon, changes where the "Fulcrum"(Speed Stud)is located on the whip (moves closer to the end - for reference; the center of the bowstring)) and slows the speed at which the tip of the whip flies forward and thus, no "Crack."
Bringing the whip back nearly all the way and having the "Fulcrum"(Speed Stud)closer to your hand (Cam) but not too close, then whiping it forward fast (your lower balance point or "Fulcrum" creates momentum as a "Speed Stud" would) can then create more speed for the tip of the whip and thus, CRACK!.
Same concept for Speed stud. It creates a little momentum and reduces oscillation and helps "whip" the string forward when semi-close to the cam.
I hope this makes sense, as I am typing this while trying to get work done and eat lunch at the same time - LOL.
?-ERock-> ?
The concept in the placing of the "Speed Studs" or "Speed Nocks" or "Speed Balls" is all relatively the same. Each has to be adjusted down (sometimes up)to gain optimum speed and avoid possible speed loss. This is why having a Chrono is important. You want to move each of the Speed Studs in incrementally small amounts until there is no more speed gain (at the peak). After that point (moving closer to the center of the string usually), you start to lose speed.
Here is a rough analogy that I hope explains the concept a little....
First thing, would be to think of how a long whip works. Think of the whip itself, as the bow string and your whipping hand as the cam and the "Fulcrum" or balance point as the "Speed Stud."
When you go to "Whip" it ("Whip it Good" - Sorry, I couldn't resist an 80's reference!), you first bring the whip the opposite direction in which you want it to fly. In order to make it "Crack," it has to be brought back to the original direction you want it to fly at the precise "Fulcrum" (balance point) and precise speed.
Bringing the whip forward too soon, changes where the "Fulcrum"(Speed Stud)is located on the whip (moves closer to the end - for reference; the center of the bowstring)) and slows the speed at which the tip of the whip flies forward and thus, no "Crack."
Bringing the whip back nearly all the way and having the "Fulcrum"(Speed Stud)closer to your hand (Cam) but not too close, then whiping it forward fast (your lower balance point or "Fulcrum" creates momentum as a "Speed Stud" would) can then create more speed for the tip of the whip and thus, CRACK!.
Same concept for Speed stud. It creates a little momentum and reduces oscillation and helps "whip" the string forward when semi-close to the cam.
I hope this makes sense, as I am typing this while trying to get work done and eat lunch at the same time - LOL.
?-ERock-> ?
EROCK1313, Thanks and I appreciate the info and analogy. It did help to understand the mechanics of it a little better. Question 2: What weight/grain speed weights and how do you experiment with them. Is there a magic number to use? My archery shop told me they start with 3 knock weights. Would you agree with that?
GBA
GBA
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nmhunter79
Guest
EROCK1313, thanks for all the input as well. I have not had any installed on my bow yet, but your "whip it", "whipped it good". thanks.
dufus
dufus
Unfortunately, there is no "Magic Number" so this is where having a Chronograph helps.
Remember, if you have a Single Cam; the nocks should be placed on the Cam side of the string, whereas if you have a Dual Cam; you would use a set of nocks or speed studs for both the top and bottom cam.
I would start using 3 nocks (can be regular brass nocks). You will want to crimp them on lossely snug (don't want them flying off at chrono, but don't want too tight so you can't adjust) so that you can adjust them up/down as needed or take off as needed.
Finding the "Sweet Spot" takes some trial and error, but the idea is to move them until you reach the Terminal Velocity (point where no speed is lost or gained) and then either crimp them on tight or "Serve" them in if not brass nocks. You can (recommended)also use some Shrink Tubing over the nocks to ensure that if one jiggles loose, it won't fly off like a bullet when the string is released..
Remember, if by adding or moving you lose FPS, you may want to readjust the other way ever so slightly. An equal nubmer of nocks should be place on top and bottom and same distance, if shooting a Dual cam. You would only have one adjustmen on the Single Cam.
Good Luck and let us know if you gained or lost any FPS and what you ended up at/with.
?-ERock-> ?
Remember, if you have a Single Cam; the nocks should be placed on the Cam side of the string, whereas if you have a Dual Cam; you would use a set of nocks or speed studs for both the top and bottom cam.
I would start using 3 nocks (can be regular brass nocks). You will want to crimp them on lossely snug (don't want them flying off at chrono, but don't want too tight so you can't adjust) so that you can adjust them up/down as needed or take off as needed.
Finding the "Sweet Spot" takes some trial and error, but the idea is to move them until you reach the Terminal Velocity (point where no speed is lost or gained) and then either crimp them on tight or "Serve" them in if not brass nocks. You can (recommended)also use some Shrink Tubing over the nocks to ensure that if one jiggles loose, it won't fly off like a bullet when the string is released..
Remember, if by adding or moving you lose FPS, you may want to readjust the other way ever so slightly. An equal nubmer of nocks should be place on top and bottom and same distance, if shooting a Dual cam. You would only have one adjustmen on the Single Cam.
Good Luck and let us know if you gained or lost any FPS and what you ended up at/with.
?-ERock-> ?
EROCK1313, thanks for the info. I have a dual cam bow so I will start with 3 brass knocks at each cam and work with a chronograph until I hit the sweet spot. I am assuming to use heat shrink tubing I would have to remove the string which may be preferred but not be practical, but sinse I am using the brass knocks I should be able to crimp them down hard enough to keep them from flying off. I think I will experiment with adding one brass knock each after I find the sweet spot with the 3 and see how that turns out.
Thanks again!
GBA
Thanks again!
GBA
S
sagebucks
Guest
If your peep is twisted you can slid the stud up or down your string to straighten out your peep.
DavidFadness
New Member
- Messages
- 1
I use them on the cable.they take up about a 1/4 turn in cable length to get your timing exactly where you want it.Basically, they pick reduce some of the oscillation from the string and help propel it forward with a little momentum.
The concept in the placing of the "Speed Studs" or "Speed Nocks" or "Speed Balls" is all relatively the same. Each has to be adjusted down (sometimes up)to gain optimum speed and avoid possible speed loss. This is why having a Chrono is important. You want to move each of the Speed Studs in incrementally small amounts until there is no more speed gain (at the peak). After that point (moving closer to the center of the string usually), you start to lose speed.
Here is a rough analogy that I hope explains the concept a little....
First thing, would be to think of how a long whip works. Think of the whip itself, as the bow string and your whipping hand as the cam and the "Fulcrum" or balance point as the "Speed Stud."
When you go to "Whip" it ("Whip it Good" - Sorry, I couldn't resist an 80's reference!), you first bring the whip the opposite direction in which you want it to fly. In order to make it "Crack," it has to be brought back to the original direction you want it to fly at the precise "Fulcrum" (balance point) and precise speed.
Bringing the whip forward too soon, changes where the "Fulcrum"(Speed Stud)is located on the whip (moves closer to the end - for reference; the center of the bowstring)) and slows the speed at which the tip of the whip flies forward and thus, no "Crack."
Bringing the whip back nearly all the way and having the "Fulcrum"(Speed Stud)closer to your hand (Cam) but not too close, then whiping it forward fast (your lower balance point or "Fulcrum" creates momentum as a "Speed Stud" would) can then create more speed for the tip of the whip and thus, CRACK!.
Same concept for Speed stud. It creates a little momentum and reduces oscillation and helps "whip" the string forward when semi-close to the cam.
I hope this makes sense, as I am typing this while trying to get work done and eat lunch at the same time - LOL.
?-ERock-> ?
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