GonHunting:
I see that Kilowatt directed your question towards me. I am no longer in the custom rifle business except for family and a few close friends. I can give you a few pointers to help you arrive at a finished package that you will want.
1. Figure out what is the max you will pay for your custom. This will be your guideline while talking to your gunsmith.
2. decide if you want a wood or synthetic stock. If you are going for consistant,year after year accuracy, you want synthetic stock.Price $200.00 to $400.00. Some persons love the beauty and warmth of a top line walnut stock. But if you go wood, the price will be higher. The stock blank for highly figure wood is very expensive. I have seen and held blanks that the asking price was $ 2,000.00, but you can get a very good looking blank in the ballpark of 400.00-700.00 dollars. The cost for inleting the wood blank and any checkering will have to be figured in along with the hand rubbed oil finish plus it should be pillar glass bedded.
3. Decide what your accuracy requirements are. If you want a guarantee of a specific size group, be prepared to pay more for that guarantee. So it pays to be reasonable unless you have alot of money your are willing to burn. When I was building hunting rifles, I did guarantee 3 shot groups under an inch at 100 yards with Federal factory ammo. I used Shilen barrels and most of the rifles would group far smaller then one inch, even the mags.
4. Make sure that the rifle is fitted to you for lenght of pull on the stock. also tell the smith what type of finish you want on the action and barrel. Do you want a highly polished "Master" finish, or do you want a satin bead non glare finish. And if the gunsmith wants more for a satin bead finish then a high polish finish, tell him to kiss off and go elsewhere. There is less polish work to apply a satin bead finish but some smiths jacked up their prices for this finish when it became a hot item wanted by hunters. Also check out his finish polish work, check to see that the letters on the barrel and action are not washed out on one side, if they are, he does not know how to polish prior to bluing.
Here is what I would do if I was building a serious custom hunting rifle. This formula will give you a top notch hunting rifle and not break the piggy bank doing it.
Mate your Win. M-70 action to a Shilen match grade barrel with a number 3 or #4 contour at 24-26 inch lenght, your choice.
satin bead finish or high polish finish is your personal choice.
Stock-for a serious hunting rifle, I would choose a synthetic stock over wood. Go with a H-S Precision or Bell & Carson or other top brand. Some have Aluminum bedding block, but this is not necessary as the stock can be bedded to the action and barrel. Have a Pachmayr decelerator pad or Sims Limbsaver pad fitted to the stock if it is a mag caliber. Your choice of sny. stocks are more limited with a Win. action Vs. Remington action.
Make sure the smith will fit the stock to you while wearing your normal hunting clothes for a proper fit in the field. I would request that the rifle be capable of 3 shots under 1 inch with factory ammo. I have found that Federal ammo is one of the most consistant accurate hunting ammo over other brands. Their Nosler Partition ammo in 300 mag usually gives groups of 3/4 to 1/2 inch.
If you shop around, you should be able to do this for under 1500 bucks. Would you believe that I was doing this for under 1000.00 bucks and I was even supply the new action just 4-5 years ago.
Good luck and shop around for a good gunsmith.
RELH