LR Reticle

[mtncowboy]

I am looking at a new 3-9x40 or 4-12x40 leupold scope with the LR reticle. For those who are not familiar with it, the scope has a regular duplex type cross-hairs but also has two dots on the lower vertical post. If you shoot a 30'06 and sight the main cross hairs in at 200 yards the first dot down is 300 and the second is 400. Have any of you had any experience with this reticle or a similar one? I am not interested in a scope with turrets, but have always been curious about one of these. I do pretty good shooting my old scope with a regular duplex, but I am curious about this particular scope so as to not have any guessing for hold over on longer shots. Also for you leupold fans, do you think there is a big difference between the vari-x and vari-xx? Thanks.

 

[WapitiBob]

The reticles work fine but you need to shoot to see where the sub tensions actually fall with your load.

 

[Zeke]

>
>The reticles work fine but you
>need to shoot to see
>where the sub tensions actually
>fall with your load.

Yep, what WapitiBob said.
Shoot it at distance and NEVER assume it prints bullets where the brochure says it will.
I like the B&C crosshairs system but the LR sounds like it might work just fine.
Good luck,
Zeke

 

[Cahunter805]

The LR duplex is an ok system. The bc reticle is IMO easier to use. Like stated be sure to verify your actual velocity and see where the reticle actually hits for you. Also remember any change in power changes the reticle yardages. I always use a chart and have minimum and max power yardages.

 

[sageadvice]

I use my Burris scope sighted in at 300 and the marks down are very close at 400 then 500 yds. I find it easier than "hold over" and that distance is about all i want when shooting at a game animal.

As said above, can't point out enough that distances and drops still need to be verified and tuned in long before you rely on the system when hunting.

Joey


"It's all about knowing what your firearms practical limitations are and combining that with your own personal limitations!"

 

[Pre64]

Very effective system PROVIDED you know the ballistics of your load and where your trajectory falls on the hash marks. The hash marks may line up nicely at 300 and 400 yards, or they may be 275 and 350. With proper input I've found the ballistic calculators to be very accurate. A chronograph to know your load's velocity is critical. Don't rely on what it says on the box of ammo or your reloading manuals.

Dial it in and go blow up milk jugs at various ranges.

 

[BPKHunter]

Except for the very slow or very fast, if you typically align your drop on the farther distance(400, maybe 500, retice depending) then you will be close enough for game the size of mule deer and elk, typically plus/minus 2".

 

[BuzzH]

If you're only planning on shooting to 400...you're wasting your time/money, cluttering up your scope, and trying to "fix" a problem via creating a bunch of new ones.

Use your current set up with a 250-300 yard zero, shoot out to 400 to verify your drop.

Easy as that...

If you're looking to extend your range beyond that, I would lose the phobia of turrets...

 

[Osprey]

I have a Swarovski Z6 3-18 x 50 L HD BRH reticle 30mm tube I'll sell you. Better scope by far. Had it on a 300 and switched it out for a Nightforce. Only had it on there for a short time. Like new condition. Make you a good deal.

 

[mtncowboy]

Thanks for the advice everyone, I am going to have to think about this one for awhile....and in the mean time I will continue running rounds through my rifle.