So This will be my second Bowtech and I'm having the same problem. When tuning my bow the only way I can get it to shoot true is with the rest very close to the riser.Problem is it leaves little left right adjustment for the sight. Does shooting an arrow with to much spine cause this?
Q?
- Thread starter JACOB2006
- Start date
swbuckmaster
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 5,004
If i'm reading what fixed blade said correctly I will have to disagree with it and i'll explain.
I will do what big pig does first with the cam lean and set center shot. You have to set cam lean at full draw. So I built a drawing board so I can draw the bow back and set the timing and lean pretty easy by myself. If your trying to do it and don't have a drawing board you need to get a buddy and pull your bow back and have him set a bare shaft on the side of your cam and have him twist the arrow to your dee loop while holding it on your cam and see if the arrow is pointed inside the string or if its pointed outside your string. Adjust the cam by one side of the yoke until its set parallel to the string. Do this to both cams on a bowtech.
I then choose an arrow from the arrow charts or archery program and shoot it. If it has a right tear its weak and you need to move rest away from riser. If it has a left tear its stiff. "Close to the riser is stiff, away from the riser is weak." Example my series 22 gold tips tune close to the riser. I had to increase bow weight by 10 lbs to get them to tune down the middle. That same bow would shoot a 5575 down the middle with less bow lbs. The series 22 arrows are way stiffer than the 5575 arrows. Another example with the same bow would shoot a kinetic 500 arrow and it would tune away from the riser. I had to take almost 10 lbs of bow weight off that bow and go to a stiffer 400 spine arrow for it to tune down the middle.
I have also found not all arrows bow combination will follow the arrow charts. Meaning I can get a triple x arrow that is off the wall stiff and it will tune down the middle but an arrow like the series 22 or kinetic will be finicky with the same bow. Sometimes you just have to ignore spine charts and do what the arrow is telling you to do for it to work out.
With the gold tips I can play with tip weight pretty easy and i never cut more than one arrow for a test. If you cut them all you are screwed if you want to play with the length.
Also do all your paper tuning at about 4 yards with a bare shaft and only use one arrow. Not all your arrows will bullet hole with a bare shaft at that distance because you need to tune your arrows. So again only use one arrow and dial it in. Then get the rest of your arrows and shoot them one at a time and twist the nocks until they all tune. Then fletch them up. It takes loads of time and if you don't have correct form you will be wasting your time. If you don't have correct form you can find a hooter shooter and tune your arrows. Example
Also Shooting at paper like they do in the shops at a few feet its a waste of time. They like doing it this way because it takes less time and they can tourque your arrow so you believe your bow is tuned and then they can blame the shooter when you can't get the same results when you shoot it.
who farted?
I will do what big pig does first with the cam lean and set center shot. You have to set cam lean at full draw. So I built a drawing board so I can draw the bow back and set the timing and lean pretty easy by myself. If your trying to do it and don't have a drawing board you need to get a buddy and pull your bow back and have him set a bare shaft on the side of your cam and have him twist the arrow to your dee loop while holding it on your cam and see if the arrow is pointed inside the string or if its pointed outside your string. Adjust the cam by one side of the yoke until its set parallel to the string. Do this to both cams on a bowtech.
I then choose an arrow from the arrow charts or archery program and shoot it. If it has a right tear its weak and you need to move rest away from riser. If it has a left tear its stiff. "Close to the riser is stiff, away from the riser is weak." Example my series 22 gold tips tune close to the riser. I had to increase bow weight by 10 lbs to get them to tune down the middle. That same bow would shoot a 5575 down the middle with less bow lbs. The series 22 arrows are way stiffer than the 5575 arrows. Another example with the same bow would shoot a kinetic 500 arrow and it would tune away from the riser. I had to take almost 10 lbs of bow weight off that bow and go to a stiffer 400 spine arrow for it to tune down the middle.
I have also found not all arrows bow combination will follow the arrow charts. Meaning I can get a triple x arrow that is off the wall stiff and it will tune down the middle but an arrow like the series 22 or kinetic will be finicky with the same bow. Sometimes you just have to ignore spine charts and do what the arrow is telling you to do for it to work out.
With the gold tips I can play with tip weight pretty easy and i never cut more than one arrow for a test. If you cut them all you are screwed if you want to play with the length.
Also do all your paper tuning at about 4 yards with a bare shaft and only use one arrow. Not all your arrows will bullet hole with a bare shaft at that distance because you need to tune your arrows. So again only use one arrow and dial it in. Then get the rest of your arrows and shoot them one at a time and twist the nocks until they all tune. Then fletch them up. It takes loads of time and if you don't have correct form you will be wasting your time. If you don't have correct form you can find a hooter shooter and tune your arrows. Example
Also Shooting at paper like they do in the shops at a few feet its a waste of time. They like doing it this way because it takes less time and they can tourque your arrow so you believe your bow is tuned and then they can blame the shooter when you can't get the same results when you shoot it.
who farted?
Broadside_Shot
Active Member
- Messages
- 590
+1 Buckmaster.
I have yet to see anyone be able to tune a bow as good as he can.
I have yet to see anyone be able to tune a bow as good as he can.
swbuckmaster's understanding of left and right tears is exactly opposite of my understanding. But I guess if the end result is perfect arrow flight it doesn't matter. I always figured that if I can get a bare shaft to hit a pie plate at 80 yards out of my bows I'm good to go... after you fletch the arrow its gravy.
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