mistertwister
Active Member
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- 107
Does anyone have any feedback for the Slick Trick Razor Trick broadheads, specifically on Elk??
Any recommendations?
Thanks
Any recommendations?
Thanks
Slick Trick
- Thread starter mistertwister
- Start date
hindquarters
Active Member
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- 123
Mistertwister, now maybe I can help you. I dont have any input on Slick tricks but I have been shooting shuttle T's for 4 years now and have harvested two elk with one shot each. These are extremely tough broadheads and fly great. I can group my broadheads as tight as my field points at long range. I have been most impressed with the strength of these as well as the sharpness. They cut a big hole both going in and exiting.
hindquarters
Active Member
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- 123
I had the same issue and it's not your setup its the tuning. You are either shooting too stiff of a spine or you need to move your rest slightly to the right and they will group together. Check out broadhead tuning thread in archery section.
If they group well together then they are not flying bad it's a tuning issue. Mine were 6-8 left at 60 but grouping as tight as my field points.
If they group well together then they are not flying bad it's a tuning issue. Mine were 6-8 left at 60 but grouping as tight as my field points.
hindquarters
Active Member
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Curious how they perform. Have you harvested anything with them yet?
PhillyB
Member
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- 28
>Does anyone have any feedback for
>the Slick Trick Razor Trick
>broadheads, specifically on Elk??
>
>Any recommendations?
>
>Thanks
What is your bow setup? Poundage, draw weight, weight of arrow, kinetic energy, etc?
I have shot the standards befor on elk (only a cow) and it worked perfectly. If you kinetic energy is high enough, I would go with the standard or magnum. They are more durable and do the trick. Just my .02 cents.
>the Slick Trick Razor Trick
>broadheads, specifically on Elk??
>
>Any recommendations?
>
>Thanks
What is your bow setup? Poundage, draw weight, weight of arrow, kinetic energy, etc?
I have shot the standards befor on elk (only a cow) and it worked perfectly. If you kinetic energy is high enough, I would go with the standard or magnum. They are more durable and do the trick. Just my .02 cents.
I like what philly said. I think people get to caught up on broadheads. Dont get me wrong... broadhead selection is important but I think arrow selection is far more important. I shoot a heavy arrow with a high front of center( 15%). Light arrows are fine if you shoot a two blade head (non expandable) but I definitely wouldnt be shooting some big three blade expandable. My goal is too cut as big as a hole as possible while still getting a pass threw and always erroring on the side of caution. I want to use as much of the arrows energy as possible in the animal. Having said that... slick tricks are on of the best penetrating heads out there. I watched a video where they went neck and neck with german kentics. Pretty impressive.
Bill_in_MI
Active Member
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- 617
If you are shooting a shuttle that far from your field points, you have a serious tuning and/or a form issue.
Do yourself a favor and read the Easton Tuning guide.
It's so tempting to screw on a mechanical and say 'your good to go' but your arrow will not have the same penetration potential as a setup that is flying true.
IMO
Do yourself a favor and read the Easton Tuning guide.
It's so tempting to screw on a mechanical and say 'your good to go' but your arrow will not have the same penetration potential as a setup that is flying true.
IMO
MY FIELD TIPS & MY EDGE BROAD HEADS FLY THE SAME, AS SOON AS I SHOOT A FIXED BLADE (NOT THAT I WILL) THEY PLANE. ITS NOT HARD TO SEE WHY WITH THE BLADE DESIGN. I AM GETTING DEEPER PENETRATION THAN THE GUYS I SHOOT WITH, ARROW FOR ARROW. WITH RESULTS LIKE THIS ITS HARD TO SEE YOUR POINT. I WILL GO WITH THE RESULTS..................YD.
Bill_in_MI
Active Member
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- 617
LAST EDITED ON Sep-08-13 AT 01:01PM (MST)[p]Back yard field point flight is not an indicator of an arrow leaving the bow square as it relates to your form. This is why a low profile mechanical will mimic (to a degree) your field point impacts.
When you screw on a high quality fixed head like a Shuttle T, Slick trick, etc AND it flies like crap, then that is an indicator that your heads are 'catching wind' as it comes off the string. At this point your fletching is trying to stabilize the erratic flight (which it cannot) and your broadheads impact different from your field points.
So, 1)you either have a form issue (grip/release), 2)your arrows are assembled poorly or otherwise mismatched for your setup, 3)fletching contact, 4)or mechanical tuning issues to sort out (assuming you want to). Its as simple as that.
Why does it matter? Because even with your field points and mechanicals, your arrow flight is still porpoising or fishtailing. To a degree this is true even if you're not observing it. Broadheads don't create the above flight characteristics, they simply magnify it. If either (or both) are happening, then your arrow is just as likely to impact tail-right/left or tail-high/low, as it is 'on center'. This is akin to striking a nail with a hammer that is at an angle, which reduces force directly behind the head (penetration), and increases lateral forces (bad).
Listen, most guys don't even care enough to start to understand the above and most get by just fine. So do whatever floats your boat, just trying to assist.
Bill
When you screw on a high quality fixed head like a Shuttle T, Slick trick, etc AND it flies like crap, then that is an indicator that your heads are 'catching wind' as it comes off the string. At this point your fletching is trying to stabilize the erratic flight (which it cannot) and your broadheads impact different from your field points.
So, 1)you either have a form issue (grip/release), 2)your arrows are assembled poorly or otherwise mismatched for your setup, 3)fletching contact, 4)or mechanical tuning issues to sort out (assuming you want to). Its as simple as that.
Why does it matter? Because even with your field points and mechanicals, your arrow flight is still porpoising or fishtailing. To a degree this is true even if you're not observing it. Broadheads don't create the above flight characteristics, they simply magnify it. If either (or both) are happening, then your arrow is just as likely to impact tail-right/left or tail-high/low, as it is 'on center'. This is akin to striking a nail with a hammer that is at an angle, which reduces force directly behind the head (penetration), and increases lateral forces (bad).
Listen, most guys don't even care enough to start to understand the above and most get by just fine. So do whatever floats your boat, just trying to assist.
Bill
hindquarters
Active Member
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YD I think what bill is saying is that if you get your stuff tuned properly so a fixed blade groups with your fid points then you will get even more penetration. As he sai you might not be able to see the fishtail with the naked eye but you have a problem if your fixed blades are 18" different at 40 yards.
BOHNTR
Long Time Member
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- 4,339
Bill is spot on, IMO. I have access to a hooter shooter machine which eliminates all human factors (form, etc.). I tested A LOT of different broadheads last summer. What I found is broadheads and field points do not actually fly in the exact same spot, no matter how tuned your bow is. However, many believe they do because the difference is so slight that it is not noticeable. Example- the Razor Trick flew about 1/2" different from a fieldpoint at 60 yards. That's pretty darn close and if shot without the use of a machine, you would think they are the same.
What was interesting to note, is out of a properly tuned bow, most broadheads were consistent (within 1.5" @ 60 yards) with fieldpoints when shot out of the machine. This would indicate that most flight problems are either improperly tuned bows or form flaws....or a combination of both. Heck, I even got traditional style heads (zwickey) to fly within 2" at 60 yards.
To the OP, the Razor Trick is an outstanding head that flew extremely well and is very durable. It would be a great choice for elk, IMO. Good luck and hope it helps.
BOHNTR )))---------->
What was interesting to note, is out of a properly tuned bow, most broadheads were consistent (within 1.5" @ 60 yards) with fieldpoints when shot out of the machine. This would indicate that most flight problems are either improperly tuned bows or form flaws....or a combination of both. Heck, I even got traditional style heads (zwickey) to fly within 2" at 60 yards.
To the OP, the Razor Trick is an outstanding head that flew extremely well and is very durable. It would be a great choice for elk, IMO. Good luck and hope it helps.
BOHNTR )))---------->
Bill_in_MI
Active Member
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- 617
I think the strength of the tip on the Viper trick might be tougher than the Razor tick shooting thru elk size animals.
The penetration on VT's is amazing.
The penetration on VT's is amazing.
>Bill is spot on, IMO.
>I have access to a
>hooter shooter machine which eliminates
>all human factors (form, etc.).
> I tested A LOT
>of different broadheads last summer.
>
>What was interesting to note, is
>out of a properly tuned
>bow, most broadheads were consistent
>(within 1.5" @ 60 yards)
>with fieldpoints when shot out
>of the machine. This
>would indicate that most flight
>problems are either improperly tuned
>bows or form flaws....or a
>combination of both. Heck,
>I even got traditional style
>heads (zwickey) to fly within
>2" at 60 yards.
>
>BOHNTR )))---------->
My boy Roy here speaking the gospel! Couldn't agree more! I always cringe when someone says I shot broadhead XYZ and it sucks because it didn't fly well. It ain't the broadhead people. It's you or your bow!
Also to the OP, I killed a few hogs with the Razor trick and it is a fine broadhead with excellent flight. I just got tired of assembling those tiny little screws and also prefer something with more tip support. I shoot VPA's.
>I have access to a
>hooter shooter machine which eliminates
>all human factors (form, etc.).
> I tested A LOT
>of different broadheads last summer.
>
>What was interesting to note, is
>out of a properly tuned
>bow, most broadheads were consistent
>(within 1.5" @ 60 yards)
>with fieldpoints when shot out
>of the machine. This
>would indicate that most flight
>problems are either improperly tuned
>bows or form flaws....or a
>combination of both. Heck,
>I even got traditional style
>heads (zwickey) to fly within
>2" at 60 yards.
>
>BOHNTR )))---------->
My boy Roy here speaking the gospel! Couldn't agree more! I always cringe when someone says I shot broadhead XYZ and it sucks because it didn't fly well. It ain't the broadhead people. It's you or your bow!
Also to the OP, I killed a few hogs with the Razor trick and it is a fine broadhead with excellent flight. I just got tired of assembling those tiny little screws and also prefer something with more tip support. I shoot VPA's.
I've killed 2 mature bulls with Slick tricks. With my bow tuned properly they hit almost exactly the same as my field tips. Neither bull went over 50 yards. Great blood trails and very short. I'm going to try the vipertricks this year. But I'll also be carrying 2 randy ulmer expandables for those extremely windy days here in WY.
They seem to cut thru the wind better than the slick tricks.
They seem to cut thru the wind better than the slick tricks.I THOUGHT I WOULD SHARE THE ULMER BH REPORT ON A RECENT ARIZ. ELK HUNT. I ONLY FLIPPED ONE STICK ON THE HUNT.....A DOUBLE LUNGER AT 40 YARDS JUST BEHIND THE HEART (NICE 6X6). HE PILED UP AT 60 YARDS WITH A IMPRESSIVE BLOOD TRAIL, WITH A MAJOR 2 INCH GASH. THE HUNT WAS MORE FUN THAN I COULD STAND.......I LOVE THAT BOW. I AM GLAD I WENT WITH MY RESULTS TRIED AND PROVEN. I WONT BOTHER WITH THE DETAILS DUE TO THE ARCHERY PURIST CROWD...........TAKE ER EASY ........YD.
