Sticky Bolt

HiMtnHntr

Very Active Member
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2,172
Gun Nuts,

I have a Sako 75 Finnlight in .300 WSM that I bought in 2006. The rifle shoots wonderfully well and I have had no problems with it. That is, until my most recent range session when I found the bolt was "sticky" or hard to close on rounds. It's still silky smooth as I work the bolt without a round in, though when pushing the bolt down when a round is in it's sticky. This is the first time this has happened. What's the problem? And/or, will some bolt grease eliminate this problem?
 
Sounds like a ammo problem since it has not done it before with other ammo. Take a black felt pen and paint the bullet black also paint the case neck and shoulder.
Carefully load the round into the chamber, trying not to mar the paint in the loading process, and close the bolt. Extract the round and check to see if the black has been scraped off certain areas of the bullet, neck, or shoulder.
If you have marks on the bullet, it may be hitting the lands when you close the bolt. Bullet will need to be set back further.
If the case neck is showing bright metal, you may have a chamber that is too tight.
If the case shoulder has marks, you may have a chamber that is on the min. lenght and the shoulder of the case needs to set back in the reloading process if you ever reload that ammo.
I would try a different brand of ammo and see if the problems goes away. If it does, ditch the federal ammo and use another brand.

RELH
 
Relh has given some great insight for you. Also could be carbon fouling or maybe a burr has developed in the chamber. What is your cleaning process and what solvents are you using?
 
Wow, thanks! I will try as RELH describes. The thing is, I've shot Fusions out of the rifle for the last several years with no problems. Also, not every round of fusion caused the bolt to close hard. I will check for any fouling in the way. I clean using a bore guide and solid, one piece cleaning rod, bronze brush, and Shooter's Choice solvent. I brush 10 times and patch clean. The rifle shoots as good as it's supposed to . . .
 
I had the same problem in a 300 WSM, but I was handloading. The solution for me was switching from RCBS to Redding dies. The RCBS was not sizing them correctly, the bottom of the case was tight in the chamber. Redding solved it.

Hope this is the case with yours and you just got a couple of bad fusions.

}}-SLIVER-->
 
Sounds like it may just be a brass problem from federal. I would also recommend using a nylon brush instead of bronze and try some bore tech eliminator. I was amazed by how quick and well BTE works.
 
What the bloody hell!!!?????

2652sticky_bolt.jpg
 
Most if not all of the problem is the Federal Brass. I have a 300 WSM and had the same problem shooting the "cheap" stuff. I figured I would shoot the Fusion as a way to play with the gun in the off season for cheap. Big mistake. Switching from shot to shot between Fusion and Winchester premimum is a night and day difference. I noticed some sticking with the premimum Federal's, but not as bad as the Fusion. Absolutly no problems with the Winchester nickle plated brass...
 
I also have the same rifle and had the same problem. Switched to nickle brass and problem solved.
 
I too had this problem with my brand new sako a7 tecomate 300wsm! Federal Premium 165 gr tsx. Bolt very hard to close! Went back to where I bought the ammo and made them open a box and put one in their gun just like mine. The bullet went in very tight and got stuck! they broke the bolt handle with a mallot trying to get the shell out.

I went to another store, got the same loads and they worked fine. As did Winchester Supreme brass.

I have never seen anything like this before!
 
It's really strange. Never had this problem with other guns/calibers....Should have just bought a 300WM and not the 300WSM. I ?drank the coolaid?, bought a 300WSM and now I'm limited to nickel plated brass same as the rest of you. I thought it was a Remington problem but sounds like other brands of guns are having the same problem.....
 
why would nickel plated brass chamber easier than plain brass?. it is the size of the brass that should matter, have you measured any of the brass. ce61
 
As a newcomer to the WSM line I have found winchester brass to be IMO Junk. Very inconsistent from the factory. I am running Norma brass and have had zero problems thus far. Also there seems to be slight differences in dies. I am running redding dies and have had nothing but great results. I do take a few extra steps in prepping new brass though. All are run through a neck sizer die and then neck turned as well as primer pockets uniformed and VLD chamfer necks.
 
I was speaking of factory loads only. For some reason the brass loads (all brands) stick for some reason. Nickel plated work fine. Couldn?t tell you why. At first I thought is was just my gun, but after some web research it seems to happen to a lot of Remington?s and now it seems to happen to the Sako?s too.

I would imagine hand loads are an entirely different story. You guys that hand load have a lot more options. I would guess Norma and Lapua brass would be much more in spec and would hold up to repeated firing a lot better than the cheap stuff (Winchester and Remington).
 
I have a similar issue. I own a savage model 16 in lazzeroni patriot.
For this round, there is only one source of brass that is lazzeroni brass itself.

If I use brand new brass which I handload, it works fine. Once fireds stick in the chamber on the way out. It happens less if I clean the chamber, but will happen in short order using the reloads.

I suppose I could ask for a different brand of dies, but that is an expensive experiment no doubt.

I sent the gun back to Savage, and they polished the chamber, but it didn't help.

Was told the brass is not great, but it sure costs a ton!!

This sticking in the chamber seems to be more previlent in the short magnums of the 30 cal variety.
 
If this was my rifle, I would do a chamber cast to determine if there is tooling marks that may be the culprit.The chamber cast would also allow you to get measurements of the chamber to compare with you brass case measurements.

For the reloaders that are having the problem of brass sticking. You may want to consider sending two or three fired cases to RCBS and have a custom set of dies made for your rifle.

RELH
 

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