i was wondering where everyone sets there zero? i usually have it set @ 100 yds and am comfortable out to 300 consistantly.shooting the 180 grain interlok by hornady but i am toying with streching it to a 200 yd zero. i will be hunting deer in nevada and elk in colorado.
where do you set your zero
- Thread starter huntdux
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I was always taught (and teach) 3 inches high at 100 yards. As my experience grew, I increased that to 3.5 high at 100. I have now installed a ballistic-drop-compensating reticle. I "walk around" with the zero set for 300 yards.
Zero at 100 (with typical modern rifles) is simply "cheating" yourself out of the capabilities of the cartridges. I'm not trying to restart the long-distance debate but the hold-over necessary to kill a deer at 300 yards, if zeroed at 100, is significant. 3 inches high at 100 yards will eliminate the need for hold-over out to 300 (general rule assuming something from a .308 to a 300 magnum)
300 yards shots are not at all uncommon in this part of the world. (I live in Idaho.)
Within the shadows, go quietly.
Zero at 100 (with typical modern rifles) is simply "cheating" yourself out of the capabilities of the cartridges. I'm not trying to restart the long-distance debate but the hold-over necessary to kill a deer at 300 yards, if zeroed at 100, is significant. 3 inches high at 100 yards will eliminate the need for hold-over out to 300 (general rule assuming something from a .308 to a 300 magnum)
300 yards shots are not at all uncommon in this part of the world. (I live in Idaho.)
Within the shadows, go quietly.
sageadvice
Long Time Member
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i agree with gb22!
The only thing i might add is when i sight in for a 300yd zero, my rifles are about 3" high at 100yds and even a bit higher at 200yds before dropping down to line of sight at 300.
Small disadvantage as compared to figuring bullet drops if sighted in zero at 100yds.
Joey
The only thing i might add is when i sight in for a 300yd zero, my rifles are about 3" high at 100yds and even a bit higher at 200yds before dropping down to line of sight at 300.
Small disadvantage as compared to figuring bullet drops if sighted in zero at 100yds.
Joey
A
apollosmith
Guest
If you have to ask this question, the answer is 3" high at 100 yards. And promise me you'll never take a shot further than 300 yards (which looks like 100 yards when you see a buck in the field). You'll be within the kill zone out to around 300 yards, but beyond there is just a crapshoot if you don't know your rifle and cartridge and have shot that far.
F
firemedic56
Guest
Good advice you've been given here...but you didn't say what caliber you're shooting...plus I'm curious as to why you're shooting such a heavy bullet.....I too say 200 or 300 yard zero, depending on the caliber.
ELKOHOLIC
Very Active Member
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LAST EDITED ON Jul-01-09 AT 10:00AM (MST)[p]Check this link out. It will give you a good starting point. Of course you will want to shoot to verify the numbers. It explains "maximum point blank range" and the benifit of it.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/rifle_trajectory_table.htm
firemedic, You can't really say he's shooting a heavy bullet without knowing what he's shooting. 180's common for .30 cal.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/rifle_trajectory_table.htm
firemedic, You can't really say he's shooting a heavy bullet without knowing what he's shooting. 180's common for .30 cal.
blazingsaddle
Active Member
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I set my rifles up for a max point blank range as well.
My STW has a zero of 273 yards and a MPBR of 316.
That puts me 2.2" high at 100 yards. and -1.5" at 300 yards. I am well within the "capabilities" of the round.
I look at the max point blank range, as "the aim to kill window" The bigger the window, the less guess work you have to do. The flatter the trajectory, the bigger the window.
My STW has a zero of 273 yards and a MPBR of 316.
That puts me 2.2" high at 100 yards. and -1.5" at 300 yards. I am well within the "capabilities" of the round.
I look at the max point blank range, as "the aim to kill window" The bigger the window, the less guess work you have to do. The flatter the trajectory, the bigger the window.
C
CHWine
Guest
7mag shooting 160 grain bullets.
2.5" high at 100 yards, puts me about 6" low at 300. I can shoot a pig in the head at 85 yards, or hit a bull elk in the boiler room at 400.
2.5" high at 100 yards, puts me about 6" low at 300. I can shoot a pig in the head at 85 yards, or hit a bull elk in the boiler room at 400.
R
redrabbit
Guest
With a plain reticle, I would do like Blazingsaddle. For the size of the kill zone and your load, determine the MPBR and zero according.
Free Point-Blank software here to use for the MPBR or to get your bullet drop at various yardages:
http://www.huntingnut.com/index.php?name=news&file=article&sid=3
With a Ballistic plex type reticle, like Leupold's B&C, the load will determine whether 200 or 300 yard zero is needed.
With turrets, life is nice and flexible.
Free Point-Blank software here to use for the MPBR or to get your bullet drop at various yardages:
http://www.huntingnut.com/index.php?name=news&file=article&sid=3
With a Ballistic plex type reticle, like Leupold's B&C, the load will determine whether 200 or 300 yard zero is needed.
With turrets, life is nice and flexible.
W
Wildman
Guest
I shoot a Remington Model 700 ADL. It was given to me for Christmas when I was sixteen, and I have never really had the need for anything else.
When I started hand loading, I did a lot of reading. Someone referred me to Jack O'Connor's hand load that he used- 130gr bullet and 62 grains of H4831. I measured the lands on my gun for my OAL and used O'Connor's load. For some this just isn't enough fire power, but I have been very happy with it. It shoots velocities of about 3100 fps and is very accurate.
I also researched the trajectory for the load using the HuntingNut software and decided on the 300 yard zero. The load shoots approximately 3.17 inches high at 100 yards, 3.86 inches high at 200 yards and of course dead on at 300 yards. The thing I like about the 300 yard zero is what it does to your 400 yard drop. My 400 yard drop is only 8.90 inches- as I recall less than half of what it would be with 200 yard zero. The 500 yard drop is also significantly less.
The one thing I would mention is that when you have a 300 yard zero your uphill and downhill trajectories are affected significantly. If you are shooting fairly level trajectories, it is great, but when you start to shoot downhill, it will raise your point of impact significantly- particularly at 200 yards. Because this 200 yard mark is a common shooting distance for many deer hunters, most will over shoot deer at 200 yard downhill with a 300 yard zero.
It has been my experience that your opportunity for a big buck if you are hunting the western mountains has the likely chance of being a downhill shot at about this two hundred yard range. Unless you want to spent the time to practice the effect that a three hundred yard zero has on this type of shot, I would suggest going with the 200 yard zero. There is a big difference between the 300 yard zero and the 200 yard zero on this type of shot- just my experience.
When I started hand loading, I did a lot of reading. Someone referred me to Jack O'Connor's hand load that he used- 130gr bullet and 62 grains of H4831. I measured the lands on my gun for my OAL and used O'Connor's load. For some this just isn't enough fire power, but I have been very happy with it. It shoots velocities of about 3100 fps and is very accurate.
I also researched the trajectory for the load using the HuntingNut software and decided on the 300 yard zero. The load shoots approximately 3.17 inches high at 100 yards, 3.86 inches high at 200 yards and of course dead on at 300 yards. The thing I like about the 300 yard zero is what it does to your 400 yard drop. My 400 yard drop is only 8.90 inches- as I recall less than half of what it would be with 200 yard zero. The 500 yard drop is also significantly less.
The one thing I would mention is that when you have a 300 yard zero your uphill and downhill trajectories are affected significantly. If you are shooting fairly level trajectories, it is great, but when you start to shoot downhill, it will raise your point of impact significantly- particularly at 200 yards. Because this 200 yard mark is a common shooting distance for many deer hunters, most will over shoot deer at 200 yard downhill with a 300 yard zero.
It has been my experience that your opportunity for a big buck if you are hunting the western mountains has the likely chance of being a downhill shot at about this two hundred yard range. Unless you want to spent the time to practice the effect that a three hundred yard zero has on this type of shot, I would suggest going with the 200 yard zero. There is a big difference between the 300 yard zero and the 200 yard zero on this type of shot- just my experience.
M
Model_70_Guy
Guest
I keep my .270 at 2.5" high @ 100 yards with 130gr. Hornady Light Mags. No problem to 300 yards.
D
DanD
Guest
Both of my primary big game rifles, 270 & 300wm are set to shoot about 3/4" to 1" high at 200 yards. This makes them about 2.5" high at 100 and about 4" to 5" low at 300. Anything inside 300 yards I realy do not have to think about just point and shoot. I seldom even grab the range finder inside 300 yards. Once I get out past 300 then the bullet really starts droping, every 50 yards is 6" or more. Dan
K
ktc
Guest
300 every time.
E
Elk375
Guest
Dead on at 200 yards. That is the way I have always done it and see no reason to change. A 180 grain AB at 2750 fps in a 30-06 will hit 8" low at 300 yards, slightly less than 24 inches low at 400 yards and approximately 48 inches low at 500 yards. Simple to remember and easy to use.
I have always shot a little high and have missed many animals because of it. I do not like to shot closer than 200 yards --strange.
I have always shot a little high and have missed many animals because of it. I do not like to shot closer than 200 yards --strange.
AWHOLELOTTABULL
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B
BucksBullsandBroncs
Guest
+1 Zero at 200 yards.
Years ago my father gave me a book, SHOOT BETTER II by Charles W. Matthews. It is basically a book of balistic tables, but gives his method of sighting in a rifle based on balistics. It has worked for me, although many of my friends think it is absurd. For my 264 Win. Mag I sight in at 22 yards, then I my zero point is 303 yards and the bullet will not rise or fall more than 4 inches. So near zero is 22 yds., 4in high at 164 yds., zero is 303 yds. and 4in low at 354 yards. So just like a simple camera, just point and shoot.
ICMDEER
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As an outfitter, I see 10 animals over shot for every animal that the bullet goes under. For that reason, we ask our hunters to go to a 200 yard zero or no more than 2" high at 100 yards. People always seem to "hold high" even if we give them the yardage and they should not hold high on the critter. I'm also guilty of shooting over animals more often than under them. So I stick to 2" high. Works well on my 300 win mag, 270 win and my 22-250. All about the same. 6-7" low at 300, then 19-21" low at 400. After that, the way the wind blows where I live and hunt, you'd best crawl closer.
Good comments about the high zero and shooting up or down steep hills. Most folks have to see that proven to them, and that is why many bucks are missed.
Good comments about the high zero and shooting up or down steep hills. Most folks have to see that proven to them, and that is why many bucks are missed.
mossback50cal
Very Active Member
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Mine are zeroed in for 20, 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards.... but, I shoot with a bow. lol But ya my rifle is 2 and a quarter inches high at 100. It's a 7mag.
NVMULEDEER1
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300 Win Mag
165 Swift Scirocco bullet
Zero at 200 yards
165 Swift Scirocco bullet
Zero at 200 yards
