This year I have decided to add colorado to my list of places to apply. I have always wanted to hunt there just time and money has been short. I now have the means that I think I can come every 2-3 years. So I have just a few questions. I have spent two nights on the CO website and reading the big game manual. I am completely lost trying to read over the limited tags and seasons. I don't need the best tag in Co because I know it will tag my lifetime and I like hunting more. For now I am looking primarily at elk and rifle hunting at first then maybe looking at some decent archery tags. So do I need to be looking at the minimum points page which shows a lot of NR tags draw at 0 points or the draw summary page. And what really gets me is looking at the big game manual i see draw that aren't even in the minimum points page??? Im not so much asking for where to go but maybe some help on what I am looking at. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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- Thread starter dmick33
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elks96
Long Time Member
- Messages
- 3,815
So your on the right track. However for now just stick to the minimum points required as your guide. The only time I get involved with the other stats is when I am on the verge of drawing or trying. To predict odds etc. for example a tag may only show as 1 point as minimum to draw but that means that only 1 person drew with 1 point the other 100 may have all needed2 points. As example a deer unit I have been watching for my cousin has shown 5 points min to draw for 4 years, however only about 20% of those with 5 points draw and everyone with 6 points draws.
As far as tags. Realize that there are tags listed in the brochure for drawing but. They may not offer any tags for hunt in a year, this the min points page will not show the "hunt code"...
Reading the hunt code is pretty straight forward... For example hunt code EM00502R... The first letter is species in this case elk, the second letter is the sex, in this case male, then the next 3 are unit in this case 5 next is the season of 2 then the weapon type is rifle... Now the real question is what do you want to hunt? You can start hunting elk in September and seasons run all the way to mid January... Do you want to hunt snow and cold? Do you want aspen pines high county? Etc. if it were me, I would look at a 1st rifle season tag or go for a lower muzzy tag. Realize that the muzzy is open sights, no scopes etc. but both tags keep you closer to nicer weather and in the rut. Or a limited 4 th season tag when the weather is worse and the snow has pushed animals down .while there are a handful of tags during the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons that are draw, I would not think many are much better than OTC tags. Realize you can hunt co every year with an OTC tag if you want.
Let me know what other questions you have... I would start by determine what hunt type you want. High country wilderness, snow and cold, changing leaves bugles, dessert pi?on junipers, wide open sage, etc. then once you decide the hunt type look into units that fit. If you not in a huge hurry pick a tag that takes a couple years then take a vacation to scout...
Also forget the hunt stats for anything except points needed and trying to figure out draw odds etc. pay little attention to odds as they are not real reliable....
As far as tags. Realize that there are tags listed in the brochure for drawing but. They may not offer any tags for hunt in a year, this the min points page will not show the "hunt code"...
Reading the hunt code is pretty straight forward... For example hunt code EM00502R... The first letter is species in this case elk, the second letter is the sex, in this case male, then the next 3 are unit in this case 5 next is the season of 2 then the weapon type is rifle... Now the real question is what do you want to hunt? You can start hunting elk in September and seasons run all the way to mid January... Do you want to hunt snow and cold? Do you want aspen pines high county? Etc. if it were me, I would look at a 1st rifle season tag or go for a lower muzzy tag. Realize that the muzzy is open sights, no scopes etc. but both tags keep you closer to nicer weather and in the rut. Or a limited 4 th season tag when the weather is worse and the snow has pushed animals down .while there are a handful of tags during the 2nd and 3rd rifle seasons that are draw, I would not think many are much better than OTC tags. Realize you can hunt co every year with an OTC tag if you want.
Let me know what other questions you have... I would start by determine what hunt type you want. High country wilderness, snow and cold, changing leaves bugles, dessert pi?on junipers, wide open sage, etc. then once you decide the hunt type look into units that fit. If you not in a huge hurry pick a tag that takes a couple years then take a vacation to scout...
Also forget the hunt stats for anything except points needed and trying to figure out draw odds etc. pay little attention to odds as they are not real reliable....
Wow thanks I was really trying to figure out why I could not find them. So do all those units really take 0 points? Right now I really would like high country wilderness type hunts to get away from cars. I still have legs that carry me pretty good. I like open areas where I can spot and stalk but am open to whatever it takes to get it done. My ultimate goal is to find an area I can come hunt every few years or more so I can maybe learn a little more every time. Also would like a unit that I could maybe hunt some deer as well since Im coming all that way. Thank you for the help.
Suggestion to review areas. Go to the Colorado division of wildlife website. Click on the hunting tab at the top then the plan you hunt sub file on the left. Then click on Colorado hunting atlas. This link will provide a tool that is worth it's weight in gold. You can browse the map by units and by satellite. You can the enter species and by area use.
In my opinion Colorado provides great opportunity in every unit as long as you put in the time and miles with patience and smarts.
In my opinion Colorado provides great opportunity in every unit as long as you put in the time and miles with patience and smarts.
ElkManDan
Active Member
- Messages
- 446
>Wow thanks I was really trying
>to figure out why I
>could not find them. So
>do all those units really
>take 0 points?
Not all of them. It can be deceiving. If no non-residents drew the tag it will show 0. Residents and non-residents are in the same draw, there is a cap for non-residents but they are not guaranteed any tags. If it says it takes 2 points for residents but 0 points for non-residents it means that no NR drew. If it says 0 pts for resident and 0 points for NR then it means at least 1 resident and 1 NR drew with 0 points.
>to figure out why I
>could not find them. So
>do all those units really
>take 0 points?
Not all of them. It can be deceiving. If no non-residents drew the tag it will show 0. Residents and non-residents are in the same draw, there is a cap for non-residents but they are not guaranteed any tags. If it says it takes 2 points for residents but 0 points for non-residents it means that no NR drew. If it says 0 pts for resident and 0 points for NR then it means at least 1 resident and 1 NR drew with 0 points.
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