Learning to Shoot a Muzzleloader for 1 hunt

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mdndeer

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Looking for you opinions, I have 31 points and the zone I am after I think I can get next year if I use a muzzleloader, or it may take 3 to 4 years if I want a rifle hunt. I am 66 years old in decent shape but waiting until I am 69-70 not sure. My question can a person with no education on Muzzle Loaders and no friends that shot one, become proficient in a year to use it on an elk. Buying the equipment is not the issue, can I learn enough in a year to operate a muzzle loader efficiently. I have been following this forum and at time I feel there is a lot to it.

Appreciate any comments.

Take Care

MDNDEER
 
mdndeer said:
Looking for you opinions, I have 31 points and the zone I am after I think I can get next year if I use a muzzleloader, or it may take 3 to 4 years if I want a rifle hunt. I am 66 years old in decent shape but waiting until I am 69-70 not sure. My question can a person with no education on Muzzle Loaders and no friends that shot one, become proficient in a year to use it on an elk. Buying the equipment is not the issue, can I learn enough in a year to operate a muzzle loader efficiently. I have been following this forum and at time I feel there is a lot to it.

Appreciate any comments.

Take Care

MDNDEER
Click to expand...
Piece of cake.
Do it!
 
I bought a muzzleloader for the exact same reason. Promptly killed a nice bull with it too.

Accura V2 w/iron sights
Blackhorn 209 Powder
Blackhorn Breach Plug
CCI 209M Primers
Powerbelt Platinum 338gr

My brother uses Hogden Triple 7 powder and Winchester Triple seven primers and has good results as well.

There’s a lot of debate about Powerbelt bullet performance on elk. Do your research and find what you’re comfortable with.
 
Absolutely not a problem at all, I thought the same thing a few years ago when I was getting into it and now it's my favorite weapon to hunt with and it wasn't that hard to get it to shoot good.
 
It's different with more steps but not hard. A good muzzy it Very accurate. I have several, a iron sight version with Williams peep sight and I put a Leupold CDS on my Paramount for hunting states that still allow scopes . I shoot Thor 300 gr behind Blackhorn , it's a trooper.
 
It’s certainly doable to learn how to shoot it accurately and quite easy actually.
What state will this hunt be in? Does it require iron sights or can you use a scope?
Todays muzzleloaders are plenty accurate and you can fine tune them without much effort.
 
Its like so many other things. Practice makes perfect. Especially with all the new muzzles, they're a piece of cake to load and reload quickly... Obviously you don't get the range of a rifle (for the most part) but thats much of the allure of using a muzzy. Good Luck.!
 
My 14yr old grandson learned very quickly last year and became a very accurate shooter out to 175yds. Maybe easier here in NV because we can use pellets though
 
I bought my first muzzle loader on December 1st, 2001. I shot a deer at 90 yards 3 days later. Of course I became more proficient as the years went on but a guy can be comfortably hunting with one in a matter of a few days.
 
Easy to do and like others have said, go for it.

I just would not take any advice from Bess. He likes 300 grains of powder and those oversized slugs.....
 
Do it. Pretty easy to educate yourself on muzzy shooting. Then just shot and work up a good load. enjoy.

All I hunt in my home state is with a muzzleloader if it is not a limited rifle draw tag.
 
Remember that user error needs to be managed at a higher level though for safety and firearm performance.

Some lessons…

1) Do everything slowly. Measuring powder, packing the bullet, capping. You are developing habits, make them good ones.

2) Prepare as much in advance as possible, pre-measured charges, a consistent pocket for everything, all your supplues at hand for reloading in the field.

3) Heavy bullets generally require lighter powder charges. Start around 70 grains and work your way up to an accurate load. A 90-100 grain load with a 300 grain bullet is pretty common. A load with a 460 grain bullet will require somewhat less (start 25% down and work back up). Round balls can take the highest charge. Note that not all powders are equal. Black powder loads are less energetic than most modern substitutes by up to around 20% even. Research and calculate accordingly.

3) Mark your ramrod so you know when bullet is fully seated.

4) Mind your ramrod….. always visually check twice that it is put back in the holder. I once rushed and shot it out with the bullet…. was probably a 1500 grain load! Recoil was…. lets say, noticeable. Coulda been BAD!!! Never found the rod or any fragments. Still had all my fingers and both eyes.

5) Clean your muzzleloader religiously after use.
 
I have only hunted states where open sights are required. one thing I found very helpful was putting on a scope when working up a load, then switch to the open sights when it’s dialed in.
 
Don't Take The Scope Off After All That!:D

oilcan said:
I have only hunted states where open sights are required. one thing I found very helpful was putting on a scope when working up a load, then switch to the open sights when it’s dialed in.
Click to expand...
 
If you're talking about modern in-line, primer fired, sabot shooting and scoped muzzleloading-like devices, you should have no trouble. If you're talking open sighted, external hammer, real black powder and lead bullet caplocks, you can do it if you work at it. If you're talking flintlock, then it is too much for one year. As my avatar shows, I use a flint (and sometimes a caplock) and have taken 13 antelope, 13 elk and 14 deer with the patched ball. I would recommend at your age (I'm older) you save your points and use the rifle. You could do well at 70. I cashed in all my points in Utah when I was 71 and got a Book Cliffs muley rifle tag......but hunted it with a flintlock and shot the deer in the avatar..I don't think I would have been successful if I hadn't been very experienced with a flint (like 50 years)...if you get any buck with traditional gear, it is a trophy. If the horns mean more than the hunt, use a rifle. ...but whatever you choose, it will be fun.............best of luck...BK
 
I agree with most of what Bkule said and have been hunting with a muzzleloader since 1973. That being said, there are a whole lot of variables. Traditional muzzleloading is my choice and I hate the in-line type of modern muzzleloaders (I have two of them) and would love to see them outlawed for the deer ML hunt in Utah. Even the in-lines are a different animal. No fast second shot. How is your health - really. If you are a tough, back country, back packing sort who shoots a lot, you will do well with any type of gun. If you just go out and shoot for a week, put the gun away until the hunt like so many. Stick with a rifle with all the technology, You will need it. Are you a tracker? With a ML'er you will most likely be tracking your shot animal. My advise to you is borrow from an in-law or purchase a ML and shoot it for a year. If you don't draw this years rifle hunt, then you will know what you want to hunt with with next year. Like a bow the ML is lose your wounded animal if you are a green-horn. If you decide on a ML read every thing you can. Purchasing a ML is only a start with so much to be learned.
 
Yes. Very possible. Plenty of time. Plus a great excuse for some good range time

Something to consider, and that is powder pellets vs. loose powder. Pellets are easier to load, but, you're stuck with standard loads, say two 50-gr pellets instead of testing 90, 100, and 110 grain charges.

Another item, don't get stuck on a bullet weight. Try different weights, say 240, 260, 300, etc. I even tried some 180 gr until I found my ML really likes 300's.

On the muzzy purchase, probably goes without saying these days but go stainless or one of the other non-corrosive/plated materials. But above all check what is legal in the state you're hunting. In some states, scopes and sabots are not legal.

Good luck and post some new gun and range photos! :)
 

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